Spearguns

Spearguns for every kind of diving, from short reef guns through to long blue water setups, plus pole spears and hand spears for shallow work. Rubber-powered guns dominate here, in timber, alloy and composite.

Choosing a speargun

Length is the main decision and it is set by where you dive, not by how big the fish are. Short guns turn quickly and suit caves, ledges and murky water where shots are close. Long guns shoot flatter and further, which is what open water and wary fish demand, but they are awkward in tight structure.

Rail guns run the shaft along a track to keep it accurate over distance. Roller guns route the rubbers over the muzzle, which gives a longer power stroke in a shorter gun and less recoil. A standard rubber gun does neither and is simpler to maintain and cheaper to run.

Whatever you choose, treat it as a weapon. Load it in the water pointing away from everyone, never carry it loaded on the boat, and unload before you climb out. Rubbers and shafts are consumable, so keep spares — speargun accessories covers rubbers, shafts and rigging, and the rest of the kit sits in dive and spear.

Frequently asked questions

What length speargun should I buy?

Short for reef, caves and low visibility where shots are close. Long for open and blue water where you need reach. If you are buying one gun for mixed diving, mid-length is the usual compromise.

What is a roller speargun?

A gun with the rubbers routed over a roller at the muzzle, so they stretch along the full length of the gun. That gives more power and a longer stroke from a shorter, more manoeuvrable gun.

Do I need a reel or a float line?

For anything that can swim off with your shaft, yes. A float line and float is the simpler setup and doubles as a dive flag. A reel keeps the gun free of trailing line in structure.

How often do speargun rubbers need replacing?

When they lose stretch, go cloudy, or show any nicks or cracks. Rubber degrades in sunlight and salt, so rinse after each dive and store the gun out of the sun.