FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS OVER $150 EXCLUDING BULKY ITEMS
FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS OVER $150 EXCLUDING BULKY ITEMS
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Spare parts and consumables for spearguns and hand spears — rubbers and pre-made bands, shafts and spear tips, dyneema rigging line, wishbones, line releases, muzzles and shock cord. The parts that wear out, and the parts that let you tune a gun to the way you dive.
Rubbers are the main consumable. They lose power long before they visibly fail, so anyone diving regularly replaces them on a schedule rather than waiting for a break. Pre-made bands save you measuring and tying; bulk rubber lets you set your own length and stretch.
Shafts bend and tips blunt, particularly on rock and reef. Flopper shafts are the general purpose choice, while threaded shafts let you change between tips. Keep the shaft diameter matched to the gun.
Rigging line and wishbones are what actually transfer the power, and they are cheap to replace. Check them every few dives. Guns themselves are in spearguns, and the wider kit sits in dive and spear.
Match the diameter to what came off the gun, and set the length so the band stretches to a consistent ratio when loaded. Product descriptions list diameters, and most guns take one of a handful of common sizes.
A shaft with a hinged barb near the tip that folds flat going in and swings out behind the fish, so it cannot slide off. It is the standard shaft for most spearfishing.
Inspect it every few dives and replace at the first sign of fraying or stiffness. Dyneema rigging is inexpensive and it is the component holding your shaft to the gun.
On a threaded shaft, yes — tips screw off and on, so you can run a flopper for general diving and swap to a different tip when you need one. Single-piece shafts are fixed.
Spare parts and consumables for spearguns and hand spears — rubbers and pre-made bands, shafts and spear tips, dyneema rigging line, wishbones, line releases, muzzles and shock cord. The parts that wear out, and the parts that let you tune a gun to the way you dive.
Rubbers are the main consumable. They lose power long before they visibly fail, so anyone diving regularly replaces them on a schedule rather than waiting for a break. Pre-made bands save you measuring and tying; bulk rubber lets you set your own length and stretch.
Shafts bend and tips blunt, particularly on rock and reef. Flopper shafts are the general purpose choice, while threaded shafts let you change between tips. Keep the shaft diameter matched to the gun.
Rigging line and wishbones are what actually transfer the power, and they are cheap to replace. Check them every few dives. Guns themselves are in spearguns, and the wider kit sits in dive and spear.
Match the diameter to what came off the gun, and set the length so the band stretches to a consistent ratio when loaded. Product descriptions list diameters, and most guns take one of a handful of common sizes.
A shaft with a hinged barb near the tip that folds flat going in and swings out behind the fish, so it cannot slide off. It is the standard shaft for most spearfishing.
Inspect it every few dives and replace at the first sign of fraying or stiffness. Dyneema rigging is inexpensive and it is the component holding your shaft to the gun.
On a threaded shaft, yes — tips screw off and on, so you can run a flopper for general diving and swap to a different tip when you need one. Single-piece shafts are fixed.