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Tools are the part of the kit nobody thinks about until the moment they are needed, and then they matter enormously. A hook buried past the barb, a fish that needs handling quickly, a leader that has to be cut cleanly — these are the situations where the right tool turns a problem into a few seconds of work.
Pliers do the most work. They pull hooks, crimp sleeves, cut braid and open split rings, and long-nose versions keep your fingers clear of teeth. If you buy one tool, buy these.
A filleting knife earns its keep the moment you start cleaning your own catch. Flexibility is what separates a filleting knife from an ordinary blade — it follows the bone rather than cutting through it. A stiffer bait knife handles the rougher work of cutting pilchards and squid.
Scales settle arguments and matter more if you release fish, because a quick, accurate weight means less time out of the water.
Lip grips control a thrashing fish without either of you getting hurt, which is worth having for anything with teeth or spikes.
Most of this lives permanently in a tackle bag rather than being packed each trip.
Long-nose pliers, a knife and something to cut braid covers most situations. Add scales and lip grips if you handle bigger fish or release them.
A fillet knife has a thin, flexible blade that follows the bone to take clean fillets. A bait knife is shorter and stiffer for cutting up baits and doing rougher work.
Most knives will not. Braid needs dedicated braid scissors or a cutter with serrated edges — a standard blade tends to push and fray it rather than cut through.
Rinse them in fresh water after every saltwater trip and dry them before they go away. Salt left sitting on a blade or a pivot does the damage, not use.
Tools are the part of the kit nobody thinks about until the moment they are needed, and then they matter enormously. A hook buried past the barb, a fish that needs handling quickly, a leader that has to be cut cleanly — these are the situations where the right tool turns a problem into a few seconds of work.
Pliers do the most work. They pull hooks, crimp sleeves, cut braid and open split rings, and long-nose versions keep your fingers clear of teeth. If you buy one tool, buy these.
A filleting knife earns its keep the moment you start cleaning your own catch. Flexibility is what separates a filleting knife from an ordinary blade — it follows the bone rather than cutting through it. A stiffer bait knife handles the rougher work of cutting pilchards and squid.
Scales settle arguments and matter more if you release fish, because a quick, accurate weight means less time out of the water.
Lip grips control a thrashing fish without either of you getting hurt, which is worth having for anything with teeth or spikes.
Most of this lives permanently in a tackle bag rather than being packed each trip.
Long-nose pliers, a knife and something to cut braid covers most situations. Add scales and lip grips if you handle bigger fish or release them.
A fillet knife has a thin, flexible blade that follows the bone to take clean fillets. A bait knife is shorter and stiffer for cutting up baits and doing rougher work.
Most knives will not. Braid needs dedicated braid scissors or a cutter with serrated edges — a standard blade tends to push and fray it rather than cut through.
Rinse them in fresh water after every saltwater trip and dry them before they go away. Salt left sitting on a blade or a pivot does the damage, not use.