FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS OVER $150 EXCLUDING BULKY ITEMS
FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS OVER $150 EXCLUDING BULKY ITEMS
Add description, images, menus and links to your mega menu
A column with no settings can be used as a spacer
Link to your collections, sales and even external links
Add up to five columns
Add description, images, menus and links to your mega menu
A column with no settings can be used as a spacer
Link to your collections, sales and even external links
Add up to five columns
Fly reels for trout through to saltwater, with spare spools to match. On light freshwater tackle a fly reel mostly stores line; once fish start running, the drag becomes the most important thing about it.
Match the reel to the rod and line weight. A reel that is too light will not balance the rod in your hand, and one that is too heavy makes a day's casting feel like work. Manufacturers list the weight range each reel is designed for.
Drag is where the money goes. A simple click-and-pawl drag is fine for trout on small water and has a pleasant old-fashioned feel. A sealed disc drag is what you want for anything that runs hard or anywhere salt water is involved, because it is both smoother and protected from grit.
Capacity needs to allow for backing as well as fly line. Large arbour reels pick up line faster per turn and put less memory into the line, which is why most modern reels use them. Spare spools let you switch between floating and sinking lines without rerigging. Pair with a matched fly rod, or see fishing reels for conventional tackle.
For trout on small streams, not especially — you often play fish by hand. For salt water and anything that makes long runs, the drag is the most important part of the reel.
One with a wide spool centre, so each turn of the handle picks up more line and the line coils in wider loops. It retrieves faster and leaves less memory in the fly line.
Enough to fill the spool under the fly line and to cover a long run. The reel's stated capacity assumes a particular line weight, so check it against the line you are using.
If you switch between floating and sinking lines, very much so. Changing a spool takes seconds where re-spooling takes a session.
Fly reels for trout through to saltwater, with spare spools to match. On light freshwater tackle a fly reel mostly stores line; once fish start running, the drag becomes the most important thing about it.
Match the reel to the rod and line weight. A reel that is too light will not balance the rod in your hand, and one that is too heavy makes a day's casting feel like work. Manufacturers list the weight range each reel is designed for.
Drag is where the money goes. A simple click-and-pawl drag is fine for trout on small water and has a pleasant old-fashioned feel. A sealed disc drag is what you want for anything that runs hard or anywhere salt water is involved, because it is both smoother and protected from grit.
Capacity needs to allow for backing as well as fly line. Large arbour reels pick up line faster per turn and put less memory into the line, which is why most modern reels use them. Spare spools let you switch between floating and sinking lines without rerigging. Pair with a matched fly rod, or see fishing reels for conventional tackle.
For trout on small streams, not especially — you often play fish by hand. For salt water and anything that makes long runs, the drag is the most important part of the reel.
One with a wide spool centre, so each turn of the handle picks up more line and the line coils in wider loops. It retrieves faster and leaves less memory in the fly line.
Enough to fill the spool under the fly line and to cover a long run. The reel's stated capacity assumes a particular line weight, so check it against the line you are using.
If you switch between floating and sinking lines, very much so. Changing a spool takes seconds where re-spooling takes a session.